Wrapped & Stuffed Foods


ISBN-13 978-1-903018-99-6

Published Aug 2013

368 pages;

246×174 mm;

paperback; 25 b&w illustrations



Oxford Symposium

Wrapped & Stuffed Foods

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2012

• Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2012 •
• 32 essays by international scholars •The thirty-first Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery discussed wrapped and stuffed foods from every possible angle, and from every possible geographical perspective. This may include sausages on the one hand, or stuffed ravioli on the other. It may also go as far as pies and sausage rolls. In geographical terms the Symposiasts were willing to look at cultures as disparate as Turkey, the United States, seventeeth-century England, Korea and Italy.There is also a pan- cultural discussion of stuffing and wrapping foods in avant-garde or molecular gastronomy.Contributors include the Chinese expert Fuschia Dunlop, the Greek cookery writer Aglaia Kremezi, the celebrated food writer and cultural historian from America Laura Shapiro, the Australian food historian Barbara Santich, the Israeli commentator and historian Susan Weingarten, and the English anthropologist David C. Sutton.

Titles of some of the papers include: The Pillsbury Bake-Off: Stuffed and Wrapped in 1950s and 1960s America; Chicken Kiev: Material, Social and Discursive Wrappings; Samuel Pepys’s Venison Pasties; Barbarian heads and Turkish dumplings: the Chinese word mantou; A Knish Is Just a Knish–or Is It? The Evolution of a Street Food to Haute Nosh and Before Dolma:A Taxonomy of Medieval Arab Stuffery.


Plenary Papers
Paperbark Cooking: Cultural Transformation Barbara Santich
The Pillsbury Bake-Off: Stuffed and Wrapped in 1950s and 1960s America Laura Shapiro
Turning a New Leaf in London: Paan Culture in the Former Metropole Jaclyn Rohel
Plenary Panel: Wrapped and Stuffed: Provocative Misinterpretations on a Theme
The Audacity of Unwrapping and Rewrapping, Unstuffing and Restuffing Virtually Everything (Including, Especially, Cheese) Harry G. West
Picture a Stuffed Goose Emma-Kayne Abbots
Chicken Kiev: Material, Social and Discursive Wrappings Benjamin F. Coles
Wrapping and Stuffing Food Relationally: Pleasure, Place, Production and Power Michael Goodman
Symposium Papers
‘Sarma’ and ‘Dolma’: Rolled and Stuffed Dishes as Therapy Tools for the Anatolian Women in the Kitchen Nilhan Aras
Pasteis de Tentugal: Serendipity or Cultural Syncretism? Paula Arvela
The Haggis Addressed Adam Balic
Lasagna: A Layered History Anthony Buccini
Samuel Pepys’s Venison Pasties Taissa Csáky
Art and Alchemy: The Authentic Air-Cured Sausages of Europe Jan Davison
Barbarian heads and Turkish dumplings: the Chinese word mantou Fuchsia Dunlop
Mantı and Mantou: Dumplings across the Silk Road from Central Asia to Turkey Aylin Öney Tan
A Knish Is Just a Knish–or Is It? The Evolution of a Street Food to Haute Nosh Elizabeth Field
All Wrapped Up: A History of Mummy Eating Len Fisher and Janet Clarkson
Rich Man’s Fowl, Poor Man’s Fowl: What’s under the Wrapper? Alexandra Grigorieva
Modernist Stuffing and Wrapping Techniques and Applications Peter Hertzmann
Siberian Stuffed: A Profusion of Pel’meni Sharon Hudgins
Yufka: Food for the Cook’s Imagination Priscilla Mary Işın
From Lettuce to Fish Skin: Korean’s Appetite for Wrapped and Stuffed Foods Join Kyung Kim
Maultaschen: No Show and a Lot of Substance Petra Kopf
The Most Frugal of the Phylo-Wrapped Pies, or How to Feed a Crowd with a Handful of Meat Aglaia Kremezi
Italian Stuffed vs. Maghreb Wrapped: Perugia’s Torta al Testo Against the Kebab Zachary Nowak
Before Dolma: A Taxonomy of Medieval Arab Stuffery Charles Perry
Bog Butter Benedict Reade
The Magic of Dumplings: Bringing Pierogi into the (New) World Frank Sciacca and Naomi Guttman
The Case for Casings Allyson E. Sgro
A Case for Culinary Mongrelism May Rosenthal Sloan
‘Four and Twenty Blackbirds Baked in a Pie’: A History of Surprise Stuffings David C. Sutton
Food for Feasting or Food for Fasting? Rabbinical krepelach Susan Weingarten