Food and Communication


ISBN-10 1-909248-49-5

ISBN-13 978-1-909248-49-6

Published July 2016

400 pages; 174×246 mm; paperback; b&w illustrations



Oxford Symposium

Food and Communication

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2015

The Oxford Symposium on Food on Cookery continues to be the premier English conference on this topic, gathering academics, professional writers and amateurs from Britain, the USA, Australia and many other countries to discuss contributions on a single agreed topic. Symposiasts considered food as an area of control and resistance in totalitarian societies; struggles between activists, corporations and bureaucracies over food labels; the use of food and cookery to explore the past and the exotic; the sounds of eating and selling food; and, as Brillat-Savarin predicted, the role of food in constructing and communicating aspects of individual and collective identity. This year marked the first Symposium under the leadership of Bee Wilson, the new Chair, and Ursula Heinzelmann, the new Director. We also celebrated many years of leadership from Elisabeth Luard and the inimitable Paul Levy. Also deserving a mention is the editing of these papers by Mark McWilliams.


  • Fava Beans and Béchamel: Translating Egyptian Food as Modern Cuisine Anny Gaul 11
  • Secrets of the Great Chefs: Decrypting Untrustworthy Communications from the Kitchens of Carême, Escoffier and Guérard Ray Sokolov 
  • Symposium Papers The Evolution of Cookbooks in the Digital Age Ken Albala and Christine Larson
  • ‘Anything is possible!’: MasterChef, World-Wide Illusion Robert Appelbaum
  • Tatattoouille on the Menu: Tats in the Kitchen, a Side of Ink, and Food as Communication Paula Arvela
  • Totalitarian Tastes: The Political Semantics of Food in Twentieth-Century Germany Volker Bach
  • Communicating Frenchness: Escoffier and the Export of Terroir Janet Beizer
  • Nobody Said to Cook: The Chinese Food of Emily Hahn and Time-Life Books Lucey Bowen
  • Tablecloth and River: Dramatizing Historical Land Claims in Tomson Highway’s Ernestine Shuswap Gets Her Trout Shelley Boyd
  • Communicating Jewish Identity Through Taste: Jewish Flavour Principles as Culinary ‘Midrash’ Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus
  • Defining ‘Cuisine’: Communication, Culinary Grammar, and the Typology of Cuisine Anthony F. Buccini
  • ‘That Was Good’: Eating, Drinking and the Etiquette of Slurping in Japan Voltaire Cang
  • Lessons from Generations Past: Timely and Timeless Communication Strategies of Some Canadian Cooks of Note Nathalie Cooke
  • Common Senses: Sound and Touch in London Food Shopping Anastasia Edwards
  • Children’s Culinary Culture: Why It Matters Elizabeth Fakazis
  • When Menus Talk: The Bernard Fread Menu Collection Rebecca Federman
  • By Any Other Name Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson
  • The Past on a Plate: Images of Ancient Feasts on Italian Renaissance Maiolica Allison Fisher
  • Dinner Isn’t Served!: The Use of Historic Cookery as a Method of Interacting with Visitors to Hampton Court Palace Richard Fitch
  • Framework for a New Culinary-Arts Curriculum Peter Hertzmann
  • Deep-frying the nation: Communicating about Scottish Food and Nutrition Christine Knight
  • Messages of Subversion: Communicating Czech Nationalism through Culinary History Michael Krondl
  • Dragon on a Platter: The Art of Naming Chinese Dishes Kian Lam Kho
  • Communicating Superfoods: A Case Study of Maca Packaging Jessica Loyer
  • A French Culinary Figure in the Anglosphere: Translating Édouard de Pomiane for English Books and Television Katherine Magruder 
  • The Language of Food Gifts in an Eighteenth Century Dining Club India Aurora Mandelkern
  • Hot, Sour, Salty…Write: Saveur Magazine, Thai Food Culture, and the Communicative Potential of Food & Travel Journalism Robert McKeown 
  • Food Fight: Survival and Ideology in Cookbooks from the Spanish Civil War Maria Paz Moreno
  • On Food and Fascism: Plating up Oral Histories Karima Moyer-Nocchi
  • The Author, the Reader, the Text: Literary Communication of a 1611 Spanish Cookbook Carolyn A. Nadeau
  • The Squander Bug: Propaganda and its Influence on Food Consumption in Wartime Australia Diana Noyce
  • I Am What I Don’t Eat: Food and Eating as a Form of Communicating Distinction in the Jewish Literature of the Second Temple Period Harriet Publicover
  • Looking Good: Picturing Food in Early Books and Prints Marcia Reed
  • Whitebait or Blanchailles? Cuisine and Chaos in Britain, 1865-1914 Laura Shapiro
  • The Rhetoric of Salmon: The War of Words, Images and Metaphors in the Battle of Wild-caught vs. Farmed Salmon Richard Warren Shepro
  • The Comté Aroma Wheel: History of an Invention, Ethnography of a Practice. A Look at the Early Years Christy Shields-Argelès
  • ‘What if I smell your peanuts and die?’ Communicating Fact and Fiction about Peanut Allergy Matthew Smith
  • Communicating Gourmet Values in Japanese Popular Media Nancy Stalker
  • Crossing the Kosher Food Barrier: Outside Influences on Talmudic Food Susan Weingarten