Portable Food


ISBN-10 1909248800

ISBN-13 9781909248809

Published July 4th 2023.

384 pages; 246×174 mm; paperback; b&w illustrations



Portable Food

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2022

Promising explorations of the foods we encounter travelling, Portable Foods was selected as the topic for 2022, the year in which symposiasts could after a two year hiatus gather for discussion and enjoyment at the 2022 Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery.

Fascinated by the meals possible on rolling trains and zooming jets, the symposium included analyses of the history and culture of dining in mobile spaces.  Containing papers on diverse topics, including a study of luxury and historical imperialism, then moving to the food served on twentieth-century Dutch airplanes, and the issues of safe guarding with gender differences in twenty-first-century Indian train compartments, the studies encompassed all kinds of travel foods, both of exploration and nomadic life, from pemmican and penguin meat to achar and qurut.

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Mark McWilliams 9
Dietary Advice for Travellers from the Mid-Sixteenth Century to Early Seventeenth Century with Two Test Cases: Michel de Montaigne and Fynes Moryson
Ken Albala 11
We Are Open, Says the City
Tamar Babuadze 19
Urban Nomads and Vagabond Food: Eating Away from the Table in Nineteenth- Century France
Janet Beizer 29
When the Lord Eats Away from the Table: Outdoor Food in Indian Gaudiya Vaishnavism
Tanushree Bhowmik 43
Cunard and Collins: Portable Food and Evolving Notions of Customer Service
at Sea, 1840-1880
Andrea Broomfield 55
From ‘Peanut Weddings’ to ‘Beef Stands’: The Socio-Culinary History of
Chicago’s ‘Italian Beef’
Anthony F. Buccini 67
Achar: An Unexpected Stowaway on the Ships of the Dutch East India Company Kathleen Burke 77
Food for Travel, Travel for Food: The Story of Ekiben
Voltaire Cang 88
The Raw and the Disordered: Portable Feasts, Blood, and Raw Meat Salads
in Contemporary Political Movements in Thailand
Nattha Chuenwattana and Chonlatorn Wongrussame 99
Savour the Flavour: A Portable History of Instant Coffee
Julia Fine 107
Mobile Gastronomies: A Case Study of Food on Wheels Culture in Hyderabad, South India
Kashyapi Ghosh and V. Vamshi Krishna Reddy 117
An Exploration of Food Mobility through the Cultural Practice of Koseli in Contemporary Nepal
Binti Gurung 127
Fair Food to Walk With
Peter Hertzmann 134
Dispatches from the Chicken Sandwich Wars
Michael Johnson 145
Istanbul’s Portable Food Practices: The Case of Dolma
Pırıl Kadırgan 156
Provisioning for Adventures: The Meanings of Paddington Bear’s
Marmalade Sandwiches
Laura Kitchings 163
Serving the Global Nation: Menus from the Royal Dutch Airlines
Charlotte Kleyn and Aimée Plukker 172
‘No kind of food? Just rubbish?’: Food Options and Family Meals of
Visitors to Canadian Prisons
Else Marie Knudsen 183
Eating in Public in Antiquity: Honorable or Obscene?
Joshua Lovinger 194
Food for the Final Journey: Feeding the Soul in Hindu Death Rituals
Priya Mani 206
Picnicking in Iran: From Cemeteries to Ski Slopes, Caves, Traffic Circles, and Beaches
Nader Mehravari 217

Food on the Move: Commensality in an Indian Train Compartment
Shirin Mehrotra 231

An Army Marches on Its Stomach: Portable Foods in War and Peace
Johanna Mendelson Forman 240

Going to the Gahambar: Tradition and Invention in Parsi Community Feasts
Meher Mirza 251
The Perils and Promises of Portability: Sweets and Snacks in Modernizing Japan Tatsuya Mitsuda 261
A Rational Approach: Portable and Practical Eating ‘Beyond the Seas’
Jacqui Newling 272
Hoosh, Dogs, and Seal Meat: The Role of Food in the Race to the South Pole
Diana Noyce 284
The ‘tacos de canasta’ (Basket Tacos) in the University: An Example of the Close Relationship between Informality and Mobility
Ayari G. Pasquier Merino and M. Fernanda Estrada González 296
From the Steppe to Space: The Portable Power of Qurut
Simi Rezai-Ghassemi 306
Cooking Summer by the Beach: Rulebreaking, Modernity, and Wellness Policies
in Three 1960s Egyptian Cookbooks
Salma Serry 311
Pemmican: An Ideal Trail Food
C. Thomas Shay 321
‘The Clever Dining Car Conductor’: Creating a Luxury Dining Experience
on the Move in Britain, 1879-1948
Chloe Shields 331
Connected Food: Preserving Traditional Food Practices via Portable Foods
Sevgi Mutlu Sirakova 337
Portable Poetic Commensality: Reflections on the Use of Food Language in Ancient Israel’s Pilgrimage Songs (Psalms 120–134)
Michelle A. Stinson 349
Travelling Silver for Those Not to the Manor Born: Old Sheffield Plate and Electro-
plated Silver in Travel Equipage and Cutlery, from 1730 to the Belle Epoque
Carolyn Tillie 357
Food for Walking: On the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
Jaime Iram Vargas Barrientos 368