Offal: Rejected and Reclaimed Food


ISBN: 978-1-909-248-55-7
Published July 2017;
400 pages: 174 x 246 mm;
paperback, b & w illustrations and charts;


Offal: Rejected and Reclaimed Food

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2016

This year’s theme – offal, rejected and reclaimed foods – when taken in the broadest sense is a  subject well-suited to the explorative ethos of the Oxford Symposium, not least because there’s no universal agreement on what actually qualifies as offal. Each culture has its own views on whether foods are acceptable or merit rejection. Even in neighbouring countries, differences run deep. For example, English ‘offal’ is linguistically related to the Dutch word ‘afval’ which means unambiguously ‘garbage’, a designation that includes most animal-intestines and extremities. The negative connotation of the word indicates automatic rejection of offal by the native Dutch. Nevertheless, within the nation, differences can be observed. In modern times, consumption of most varieties of organ-meats, traditionally unusual in The Netherlands, is having a come-back thanks to newcomers from all parts of the world. Goatheads, chickens-feet, blood, liver, testicles, stomach, udder and heart, are all available if you know the right butcher.


Marginalized Meats? Contextualizing Offal Consumption in 1940s Spain Suzanne Dunai
It’s All edible: Four Views of Offal Peter Hertzmann
The  Ends of Offal: Reflections on Laboratory-Grown Meat Ben Wurgaft
‘Vulgarly Termed Lights’: The Curious History of Lung Cookery Ken Albala
Sirdan: The Pornographic Dish of Conservative Land Nilhan Aras
Offal and the Master Cook: Nose to Tail Eating in Late Medieval Germany Volker Bach
Foie Gras: The Quantum Offal Guillemette Barthouil
Leverpostej – More than Just a Danish Way of Eating Offal Nina Bauer
An Internal Crisis: The Shifting Value of Offal in the UK Meat Industry Barley Blyton, Polly Russell and Tessa Tricks
‘Un Vrai Jambalaya – ‘A Real mess”: The Complex Western Mediterranean Origins of Louisiana’s Famous Dish Anthony F. Buccini
The Three Great ‘Rare Tastes’ in Japanese Culinary History: Sea Cucumber Entrails, Sea Urchin Gonads and Mullet Roe Voltaire Cang
A Woman Holding a Liver Amanda Couch
Hog’s Puddings, White Puddings, Liverings and Andolians: The Rise and Fall of England’s Offal Puddings c.1500-c.1800 Jan Davison
Liver for Cats and Kids Pelin Dumanli
A Waste of Flavour Thom Eagle
A Knife and an Onion: Reclaimed Food and Skills in Central London Anastasia Edwards
The Search for Lost Blood: Why the Blood Has Run Dry in British Black Pudding Jessica Fagin
Fish Heads, Tapioca and Sweet-Potato Leaves: The Ingredients of Survival in Occupied Malaya during World War II Laura Fan
Beaver as Offal: The Presence and Absence of Beavers in Canadian Cuisine L. Sasha Gora
‘Starbuggs?’: Natural Dyes, Disgusting Drinks and the Controversy over Cochineal Use at Starbucks Amy Butler Greenfield
The Case of Missing Brains, a Long Way from Rome Alexandra Grigorieva
Gut Feelings: Tripe in American Poetries Naomi Guttman
Copying and Copyright: The Recipe Text as Offal Heidi Hakimi-Hood, Amanda Milian and Carrie Helms Tippen
Waste against Waste: Medicinal Offal Products, ‘Artificial Digestion’ and the Nineteenth-Century Thrift Movement Lisa Haushofer
Offal People: Resurrecting Chicken Feet on the Streets of Cape Town Arundhatie Biswas Kundal
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: The Allure of Offal Cuisine in Japan Christopher Laurent
Food Waste: Attitudes, Behaviors and Perceptions at Hamilton College Eunice Lee
Pig, Pork, Prep, Print: Cochon555 and Whole Animal Cookery Discourse Robert McKeown
Blood, Not So Simple Jennifer McLagan
Frikandel, the Most Popular Dutch Snack: Wasteful or Sustainable? Lenno Munnikes
Offal and Extremities in Art Gillian Riley
‘A Sentimental Passion of a Vegetable Fashion’: How American Culture, Politics and Commercial Agriculture Reflect and Influence Shifting Opinions of Fruit and Vegetable Offal Charity Robey
Gone and Forgotten: Hooksteaks, Trashbags and Other Vanished Icelandic Offal Dishes Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir
Outlaw Offal: The Curious Cases of Tête De Veau and Foie Gras Richard Shepro
Mocotó Jam: Children’s Food


The Tradition of Offal in the Greek World: From Classical Antiquity to (post-) Byzantine Time

Marcella Sulis and Myriam Melchior

Stephanos Tanis

Axolotl: Pre-Hispanic Delicacy, Rejected Monster and Reclaimed Wonder of Science and Literature Fernando Valerio-Holguín
Abjecting Crab Brain: Offal Eating and Ethnic Identity in The Joy Luck Club Jiachen Zhang
The Lore of Tripe: Middle East and Beyond Sami Zubaida